The Korean skincare routine
What is that?

Korean skincare routine. How and why you should be doing it!

The skincare I learned when I was younger was, cleanse tone and moisturize, that’s it. Nothing more and nothing less. Sometimes I even skipped the toner part due to that I felt more dry (probably used toners with alcohol in). When I grew older I started using toner without alcohol and an eye cream. The toner I sometimes skipped. This is what I think is most common in the rest of the world, except in the counties they know better.

So what is the Korean skincare routine?

Korean skincare is not basic it is anything but. There are a lot of steps about 10-12 or you can even have more steps. Starting with just the basic you have cleansing, exfoliating, treatments, moisturize and Spf. A lot of Spf. This doesn’t mean that you have to use 10-12 steps, but look at it as more of a guide line and by layering products on top of each other you can actually target a lot of skin type issues at once.

So I will basically explain the steps as easy as possible. Step 2, 3, 7 and 11 are not followed every single day. But more when you feel that your skin needs it.

1. Eye makeup removing

Clean your makeup of by using a makeup remover. My favorite (and has been for a long time is Skinfood milkshake point remover. This will take away your waterproof mascara or your tints quite easily. No rubbing. Soak a pad in the solution and press it gentle over your eyes for maybe 20 seconds then wipe away the makeup.

Korean skincare routine: Eye Makeup remover
Korean skincare routine: Eye Makeup remover

2. Cleansing

2:1 Oil based cleanser

The first step in the Korean skincare routine is to use a cleanser that has an oil as a base. The oil is amazing in removing foundation, sun creams or any other thicker product you use on top. This is perfectly fine to use if you have oily skin as well. This type of cleanser comes in different forms. You have the once that looks like an oil, and than you have oil cleanser that are more solid. Which one you use is only up to you. But I just love these types of cleansers. You apply the oil in circular motions, massaging it into you skin and then you wash if off. It will not leave any oily feeling behind so it is not like using coconut oil on your face.

Korean skincare routine: Oil Cleansers
Korean skincare routine: Oil Cleansers

2:2 Foam cleanser

The second cleansing step is to use any type of foam cleanser. By doing both of these steps you are following what is called the double cleansing method.

Do I always need to double cleanse?

No, is the short answer. I only double cleanse when I have been using a lot of makeup, or if I feel that my skin needs it. This is what you also will learn after a while. Since you really get to know your own skin and what it needs. The most important thing is to always use products that are suited for YOUR skin type.

Korean skincare routine: Foam cleansers
Korean skincare routine: Foam cleansers

3. Exfoliate

Yes yes yes. This is really important if you have dry skin. Because the drier you skin are the more of a barrier will be in between your skin and the products you put on. This is what my skin was like before I started with The Korean skincare routine. Nothing seems to penetrate the rough surface and everything I put on my skin stayed on the surface.

A great scrub would be Skinfood Black Sugar Wash Off Mask. Your skin will be as soft as a baby’s butt and it is really doing a great job. If you have sensitive skin you should not use it to often due to that it contains black sugar and can be harsh for some. You can always add some water in your hands before you start massaging it in your face. This is not to be every single night but maybe once or twice a week. You will have to feel your own skin and see what it can take.

Korean skincare routine: Peeling and exfoliating
Korean skincare routine Peeling and exfoliating

4. Toner/refresher/softener

There are many different names for the same thing which can sometimes be confusing but this step is really important. The main goal of a toner is to restore the pH balance after cleansing and also to prep the skin for the next steps. The are so many amazing toners out there and this step can make a really big difference to how your skin behaves as well. I sometimes use two different toners just to get more into my skin.

Korean skincare routine Toners
Korean skincare routine Toners

5. Essence

Essences are basically liquids that contains a lot of great ingredients for you skin.

Here you need to look for product that are targeting the problems you are experiencing. It can be to even the skin tone out, reducing acne scars, anti aging, hydrating or many other targeted issues.

Essences
Essences

6. Ampoule/serums

Ampoules or serums are mainly the same thing as essences. Earlier on it was much easier to tell them apart due to that essences were watery and serums thicker. This is mainly still the fact, but there are always some who will be more innovative then others. In the future I guess they will be called the same. Today you even have foundation serums and that is just weirdly confusing. Ampoules and serums are a product group you can really target those areas you want to target by adding serum after serum. I sometimes use three different serums and sometimes only one. This depends on what else you are using.

Serums
Serums

7. Sheet masks

I love these. They are to be used about twice a week but can be used more often if you feel like it. The sheet masks are often made of paper or cotton. They are soaked in different ingredients like snail mucus (this will be a whole chapter on its own), collagen, hyaluronic acid, berry extracts, vitamins etc. By adding this into a mask the skin is more or less forced to let the goodies in.

You can also add a mask out of silicone over the sheet mask to prevent the serum from evaporating. Sometimes you don’t need moisturizes after this due to all the moisture your skin is soaked in. If I am using a sheet mask I skip using a serum that targets the same issue as the sheet mask. For example if I am using an anti aging mask, I will not be using an anti aging serum that day.

Sheet masks
Sheet masks

8. Eye cream

The method here is tap tap tap and the eye cream is as important in Korean skincare as in the rest of the world. It’s good to use the ring finger due to that it gives a light pressure under the eye. Here you also need to find a product that targets your issues. It can be dark circles, puffiness, hydrating or anti aging.

Eye Creams
Eye Creams

9. Light Moisturizer/ or emulsion

Korean skincare is all about layering product after product. You will actually feel than your skin can’t take anymore still add this layer gently massaging the cream into your skin. Emulsion is a lightweight moisturizer that suits many persons with oilier complexions for daytime, when a normal moisturizer is too heavy. Very dry skin types can use both. I often use a snail cream as a first moisturizer or some aloe gel (especially during winter).

Emulsions or light weight moisturizers
Emulsions or light weight moisturizers

10. Moisturizer

The whole point is that you should wake up in the morning and still feel moisturized. By now you probably wonder if this is right. You have so many products on your face that it feels really weird. This is how it is supposed to be. Your skin absorbs the products over night.

Moisturizers
Moisturizers

11:1 Sun cream (daytime)

This is a daytime only product and should always be incorporated if you tend to go outside during the day.

Sun Protection
Sun Protection

11:2 Sleeping mask (night time)

This is another step that is simply amazing. A mask you sleep with. What can be wrong about that. The masks is just like a really heavy moisturizer and you add it on top of your moisturizer. You might need to change your pillow case a little bit more often but who cares:-).

Sleeping masks

Is there a difference in the morning routine and evening routine?

Yes there is. This depends on what I am doing that day. If I am using makeup or not. If I am using makeup I don’t use too many serums and I might go with not as hydrating products (depending on my skin that day). Many people have completely different routine morning and night. Instead I add more products during my nighttime routine and use more hydrating steps in my evening routine. I would not use a sheet mask during morning and then add makeup on top of that. I often experience pilling when I do and that is just not a nice look.

Can I skip any steps?

Yes, you absolutely can. But always make sure to clean, tone, use one essence/serum or ampoule, moisturize and use sun cream (if you are going outdoors). You should not use exfoliating products to much either. So look at your skin and s

The steps are only guidelines for you to use and then one step can be skipped certain days or nights and you may add more serums.

One of the rules of Korean skincare is to be gentle, never drag or pull your skin. Be gentle because the skin on your face is very sensitive compared to the rest of your body. Patting in products or gentle massage is the way to go.

How to put the products in order

Sometimes it can be very hard to know in what order to use your products and mainly you can go with the most liquid product first and the thickest in the end. For example cleanse, use a toner and then the lightest product first…Then of course there are some products that are called first essences and can be used before toner.

A lot of serums are oily and make you quite greasy but they don’t need to be in a certain order just pat them on one by one if you use many.

A guideline is to follow this order

  • Cleanser
  • Toner
  • Essence
  • Serum
  • Ampoule
  • Emulsion and or moisturizer
  • Sleeping mask

If you have any questions feel free to add a comment or send me an email.

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